LFW: Molly Goddard SS24

16 Sept

Having always loved the internal workings of garments, hand sewn adjustments and finishings, Goddard started the SS24 collection at the National Theatre costume hire, focusing on underskirts and underwear—crinolines, 1950s bras, Victorian christening gowns and Georgian underskirts.

The team turned things inside out and discovered grosgrain strapping, internal zips, boning and binding, playing a key part in the collection, all exposed, exaggerated and external. Grosgrain and zip plackets are highlighted and left undone and underwear details feature throughout, cotton wrapped elastic, zig zag stitching, bra seam lines.

The signature frills explode from seams of tailoring and from underneath heavy canvas cotton. Pin tucks are cut on the bias creating new silhouettes and draping. Domestic qualities also feature — satin trim felted wool knits reference old fashioned rich pastel blankets, a faded upholstery rose print on lightweight cotton organdy, wadded cushion bags, a duvet dress.